Every week, the news labels a different consumable as “bad for you.”
This trend can be seen in our food, medicine, and drinking water. All of
which have been described as riddled with carcinogens, hormone
disruptors, forever chemicals, and toxins. Unsurprisingly, all these
harmful chemicals can be found within our wardrobes and throughout the
textile industry. More importantly, the health implications of these
substances are vast in range, and volume, as approximately 25% of global chemical output
originates from the textile industry. Since textiles comprise a
significant part of our world, and we are in contact with textiles all
day, every day, safety and confidence in these products are vital.
Good versus Bad
There is much talk about what is good or bad for you, so before we
dive into the specific chemicals in our clothing, it is essential to
note that Chemicals are not inherently bad. All matter
is made of chemicals! That includes you and me. While it is true that
not all chemicals are “good” for us—and even those that are, namely
water, can be harmful when exposed to too much of it—the word chemical
should not be feared.
What are these “bad” chemicals?
There are about 8000 synthetic chemicals
that are used in the apparel industry manufacturing process, from
material acquisition to the finished product. Since we cannot cover
every chemical and its function, this article will focus on the most
common and deleterious substances. These include, but are not limited
to, flame retardants, Polyfluorinated substances (PFAS)*, lead & chromium, phthalates, chlorine bleach, AZO dyes, and volatile organic chemicals (VOCs)+ such as formaldehyde. Please
see the infographic below for a more in-depth look at chemicals and
associated health concerns. NOTE: This is not a comprehensive list.
Function matters, but at what cost?
These chemicals were not created to be “bad,” but does their intended purpose eclipse their adverse effect? Let’s take a look
Flame retardants were designed
to stop clothing from burning and are required for children’s clothing.
This helpful technology has been linked to bioaccumulate (the chemical/material builds up in the bloodstream) health risks, including infertility, neurotoxicity, endocrine disruption, and cancer.
PFAS materials
are fluoropolymer coatings/products that are popular due to their
ability to resist water, oil, heat, and stains. You can often find these
materials in raincoats, shoes, cosmetics, mattress pads, printed
natural and synthetic fabrics, and finished textiles labeled as water or
stain-repellents. However, these chemicals have also found their way
out of their intended products into our environment, drinking water, and
food. Thus, they are known to bioaccumulate and are often recognized as
environmentally persistent and carcinogenic.
Lead & Chromium (VI)
are heavy metals that come in different forms. They can be found in
rocks, plants, animals, and soil. Lead is a heavy metal found in natural
fibers such as cotton, hemp, and flax. In the manufacturing process,
Lead and Chromium (VI) materials are used to stabilize the color in the
dyeing process. You can find these elements in vividly colored synthetic
products. While these are naturally occurring, when high concentrations
of these chemicals come into contact with the skin, are absorbed, or
ingested, they have been linked to cancer and contact dermatitis.
Additionally, when clothing containing these compounds is washed, during
both the manufacturing process and later by consumers, they can cause
environmental damage.
Phthalates are used in activewear and anti-odor clothing, printing inks, and processing. Phthalates are
a plasticizer, used with rubber to print images onto garments, and are
predominately known to be cancerous. They have also been linked to
endocrine disruption.
Chlorine bleach, a
whitening and stain removal agent, can cause severe asthma and
respiratory problems. It is often used to process natural fibers such as
cotton (think denim) and to prepare polyester for dyeing. Chlorine
bleach and solvents such as chlorobenzenes can be toxic by inhalation or
skin contact.
AZO dyes make up 60-70% of
fabric colorants and are responsible for the vivid colors that can be
seen in many textiles, especially clothing concentrated in black and
brown pigmentation. Azo dyes can quickly come off fabrics and, once in
contact with the skin, break down to release chemicals called aromatic
amines, causing skin allergies and dermatitis, some of which have been
reported to cause cancer.
Solvents, adhesives, plastic & metal accessories, synthetic dyes, and fibers used during the production process release VOCs.
Some common VOCs are formaldehyde, toluene, ethylene glycol, benzene,
methylene chloride, 1,3-butadiene, xylene, and tetrachloroethylene.
These chemicals allow for an easy-care finish, such as wrinkle-free
products. However, VOCs are a huge occupational hazard, as off-gassing
can cause developmental and reproductive system damage, skin/eye
irritation, and liver and respiratory problems.
How can I stay safe?
When looking at your wardrobe, seek materials, fabrics, and dyes that
are considered natural rather than synthetic materials.
Check for third-party certification standards such as the Oeko-Tex
Standard 100, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), the EU Ecolabel,
or the bluesign® certification.
Fashion for the Earth
is EARTHDAY.ORG’s mission to educate consumers and provide them with
enough information to be safe and sustainable and ultimately challenge
the industry for the better.
As I have previously written, the best option is to not buy too often and to buy second hand garments.
The blog song for today is: "Jilted John" by Jilted John
Brown gold: Treated sewage could heat one-third of Prague
After all, this is one energy resource that is literally inexhaustible and domestically produced
The
City of Prague has plans to develop a new residential district for
25,000 people on a hundred-hectare brownfield in Bubny-Zátory. This time
around though, urban planning is taking into account current crises,
such as fossil fuel dependency and energy security, to offer an innovative solution – using treated sewage surplus heat to keep homes warm in winter.
For
this purpose, a new energy centre will be built next to the wastewater
treatment plant on Císařský island and near the planned district. The
idea behind it is simple, install 12 heat pumps and channel the heat
where it can be of benefit – 200,000 households.
Don’t let heat go to waste, let waste go for heating
“The
(energy centre) project has been in the making for about two years. It
uses the heat of wastewater that is treated on Císařsky island. Every
second, three cubic meters of treated wastewater leave the treatment
plant, which even in the coldest months has a temperature higher than
ten degrees. We have a huge opportunity to use this water to obtain heat
for up to a third of Prague. It has been working successfully for
decades in Denmark or Sweden, and there is no reason why it should not
be the same here. Moreover, sewage is the only raw material that Prague
will always have enough of," stated Petr Hlaváček, 1st Deputy Mayor of Prague, as quoted by Prazsky Patriot.
The
Bubny-Zátory area sits on a peninsula formed by a bend of Prague’s
Vltava River and thus enjoys a fairly central location that has been
unutilized for decades. The development, however, apart from granting
more housing units has the unique chance to serve as the platform for
new future-proof solutions, making it a model district in terms of sustainability.
The
first housing units in the residential quarter will be ready by 2025,
though the entire district will be completed by 2040. The jewel of the
new district will be the upcoming Vltava Philharmonic, which too will be
heated and cooled with this sustainable approach.
Here is another report from: www.danfoss.com
Since 2010, Marselisborg wastewater treatment plant has transformed
its focus beyond minimizing energy consumed, to maximizing net energy
surplus. Nowadays the facility has net production of both electricity
and heat, supplying the district heating system in Denmark’s
second-largest municipality, Aarhus. The carbon footprint has been
reduced by 35 % accordingly.
Water and wastewater treatment facilities are normally the single
largest electricity consumer for a municipality. Typically water and
wastewater treatment processes account for 25 – 40 % of the municipal
electricity consumption. The high consumption is related to the energy
intensive processes but also its continuous operation cycle, 24/7 and
365 days annually.
Over the years focus has been on developing new processes and
control strategies to reduce energy consumed per litre of water
processed. However at the same time the increasing demands upon
wastewater treatment quality, for example in nutrient removal, in turn
increase net energy consumption.
Energy balance optimization Water and wastewater
treatment processes are characterized by high load variation during the
24 hour cycle and seasonally throughout the year. The use of frequency
converters has therefore steady increased in order to control blowers,
pumps and other motorized equipment, to adapt to the changing demand.
Since 2010 Aarhus Water has worked intensively together with water
environment consultants to improve the energy balance for Marselisborg
wastewater treatment plant.
Key steps in the strategy:
Optimization of the nitrogen removal process using online sensor
control. The frequency converter adapts the level of aeration precisely
to the need. This control system reduces energy consumption and
increases the amount of carbon left in the system.
Blower technology upgrade to a high speed turbo blower. The upgrade
achieves further reduction of energy consumption in the aeration
process.
Aerobic sludge age control as a function of temperature and load on
the plant. Here frequency converter control of the return sludge pumps
is the key to achieving energy reduction and increased retained carbon
in the system.
Upgrade of combined heat and power (CHP) process for energy production, with 90 % energy efficiency.
These changes together with improvements including the effective
co-production of electricity and heat based on methane gas extracted
from the aerobic sludge digestion process have created the impressive
results of:
130 % electricity production (30 % excess electricity)
Excess heat production of about 2.5 GWh/year
VLT® in every corner
Frequency converters are installed on almost all rotating equipment
at Marselisborg WWTP: blowers, pumps, mixers and dewatering pumps. The
frequency converters allow the plant to adapt to load variations, with
maximum flexibility. Over 100 motors are controlled by VLT® frequency
converters at Marselisborg.
Energy generation vision
The vision for Aarhus City is to extend energy generation even
further, to achieve surplus production of energy from its wastewater
treatment plants so high, that it can also meet the energy requirement
of the city’s potable water supply. This will transform the single
largest electricity consumer for the authority into an energy-neutral
party.
With limited sunlight during the winter months, increased lighting is a must. And when 75 percent of outdoor lightning
is expected to be light-emitting diode (LED) bulbs by 2020, chances are
good that you have some LEDs in the house. But what happens when these
bulbs burn out?
First, the good news: LED bulbs last up to 50,000 hours,
way longer than halogen, fluorescent, and incandescent bulbs. They fit
most fixtures and will cut your energy use considerably. So, buying LEDs
should limit your need for bulb disposal and save you money.
When it comes to recycling, the news about LEDs isn’t so good. The
most commonly accepted light bulbs for recycling are compact fluorescent
lamps (CFL) and fluorescent tubes, because they contain mercury. This
is both a valuable material and hazardous if exposed to humans, so
fluorescent bulbs are classified as universal waste and therefore accepted by retailers like Home Depot and Lowe’s, in addition to local household hazardous waste (HHW) programs.
String Light Recycling Options
After the holidays, you may have some burnt-out string lights you
need to recycle. Nowadays, most string lights use LED bulbs. The good
news is Home Depot will accept these for recycling, and has recycled more than 2.5 million string lights since 2008.
If you’re willing to pay for shipping, you can mail your string lights to companies like Christmas Light Source and HolidayLEDs.
When you send in your lights for recycling, these companies offer a
discount coupon towards the purchase of new lights. And the Christmas
Light Source donates proceeds from its recycling program to Toys for
Tots.
Something else to consider with string lights: You may only need to
replace one bulb for the entire string to work again. You can buy replacement bulbs online for easy installation.
Before
you give up on your string lights, you might need to replace just one
LED bulb for the entire string of lights to work again. Image: StockSnap, Pixabay
Mail-in Programs
For LED bulbs, the best recycling option is going to be mail-in programs.
Some of these companies will send you a pre-paid recycling box you can
fill with bulbs for recycling. In most cases, they accept all types of
bulbs — not just LEDs.
After receiving your bulbs, these programs separate the glass bulb
from the metal ballast and send those materials to the appropriate
recyclers. The color of the bulb will not affect the recycling process.
The Future of LED Recycling
Much is still to be determined with the recycling of LED bulbs, as
their sales have jumped so drastically in the past 10 years. In 2009,
there were fewer than 500,000 common home LED bulbs, according to the Department of Energy, and that number jumped to almost 80 million in 2014.
Because they are designed to last so long (just like solar panels),
we can expect LED bulb disposal to surge in the next 10 to 20 years.
Will manufacturers start offering take-back programs or will legislation
be drafted to address the problem? We don’t know yet. But it’s worth
noting that neither of these solutions were offered for incandescent
bulbs, which LEDs have replaced as the go-to lighting source in America.
What the recycling system here in Spain is uncertain! I normally take mine to the recycling plant on the industrial estate in Ciutadella.
As with most of these things, it is how to dispose of them in the future, because they are new, we do not know what will happen.
The blog song for today is: "Shake your thing" by Salt n Pepa
Houseplants are the unlikely new stars of Instagram. But a houseplant is so much more than a pretty face.
A new guide to the most popular flora on “houseplant Instagram”
suggests that a “potted plant is good company, something to look after —
an exotic pet that won’t incur the wrath of your landlord.” The guide
also points out that plants benefit mental health, which is especially
relevant given the current pandemic.
According to some, however, one of houseplants’ best benefits is its ability to purify the air. But just how true is that claim?
In the late 70s, NASA scientist Bill Wolverton found
certain plants are more effective at removing “volatile organic
compounds” (VOCs) from the air than others. VOCs are chemicals that
arise from typical household products, such as wall paint, nail polish
and other scented substances. They can cause short-term discomfort, and
can lead to cancer.
Some claim, however, that houseplants are only effective air
purifiers in a hermetically sealed environment, such as a research lab
or a space station. The amount of houseplants needed to completely
“purify” the air in a house or office would be unfeasible, expensive and
time consuming and would likely lead to new issues, such as humidity.
“You would have to put 1,000 plants in [a 7.5m2] office to
have the same air-cleaning capacity of just changing over the air once
per hour, which is the typical air-exchange rate in an office
ventilation system,” according to Michael Waring, an engineering professor at Drexel University.
But complete purification doesn’t need to be the end goal.
“[E]ven three potted plants in an average-sized office will reduce
airborne volatile organic compounds to an extremely low level,” Fraser
Torpy, a lecturer in the School of the Environment at University of
Technology, Sydney, wrote in The Conversation.
Torpy refers to a study
conducted at the university, which concluded that potted plants are a
low-cost, sustainable and self-regulating solution to indoor air
pollution — and, as a result, improve our wellbeing and productivity.
If you’re worried about the level of air pollution in your home,
you may want to do more than simply stock up on houseplants and get on
with your life. For example, you can also test your air, install an air
purifier, create more ventilation and vacuum more often, in addition to
nurturing an indoor forest of houseplants. After all, houseplants are
still beautiful, great company and good for your health.
Try these natural steps to improve the air quality in your home or workplace:
Open windows (though be mindful of busy traffic nearby)
Cycle or walk places instead of driving
Address damp and mold problems (and avoid these problems by hanging wet laundry outdoors or in a ventilated area)
Clean regularly with natural cleaning products and ventilate while cleaning
Quit smoking and ban indoor smoking in your home
The healthiest attitude may be to remember that plants are not tools. Nurture, love and live with the indoor plants that you find to be the best company, rather than ‘installing’ them like a purification system.
We all breathe the same air. Let’s keep it clean. Maybe that means
buying house plants, or maybe it means joining Earth Day Network’s
citizen science project, Earth Challenge, to provide data on the air quality in your area. Whatever you do, stay up to date on the environmental movement.
We love our house plants,we have loads!
The blog song for today is: " The air you breathe" by Bomb the Bass
Cutting the Climate Impact of Your Air Conditioner
ByGemma Alexander
Oct 24, 2022air conditioning, appliances, climate impact
Even if you live in a relatively mild climate, thanks to climate change, you probably need an air conditioner. As a consequence of climate change, the frequency and severity of heat waves have increased around the world. Famously cool climates like the Pacific Northwest and England
now routinely experiencing record-breaking highs and extended heat
waves. And it’s not just a matter of comfort – this increase has
resulted in tens of thousands of deaths. As temperatures rise, air conditioning is becoming a matter of safety. But it’s a vicious cycle because air conditioning is part of the problem of climate change.
Environmental Impacts of AC
Air conditioners consume 3,000 to 5,000 watts of electricity every hour that they run. The climate impact of that will depend on the energy source
that provides the electricity. But in a hot climate, it contributes a
significant part of a household’s total energy consumption. For most
Americans, temperature control
makes up more than half of home energy use, and air conditioners
specifically account for 23% of electricity use in all American
buildings. That’s about 117 million tons of CO2 emissions annually.
Air conditioners also contribute directly to climate change by releasing ozone-depleting greenhouse gases. Although current refrigerants are better than freon (which has been phased out of use), they are still red list chemicals. Air conditioners can leak up to 10% of the hydrofluorocarbon (HFC) refrigerants they contain each year. And if we do not properly dispose of old units, the refrigerant may be completely released into the atmosphere.
Cutting AC Use
One of the best ways to reduce the impact of your air conditioner is
to simply use it less. When the weather is less extreme, rely on
low-tech cooling options.
Opening windows and running electric fans will cool rooms by providing
ventilation and airflow. Compared to air conditioners, electric fans
only use about 100 watts of electricity per hour. Your window treatments can also help counter high temperatures. Help yourself stay cool by dressing for the weather, and even drinking iced tea
(or other cooling beverages) can help. Only run the AC on days when the
temperature really soars. Even then, then set it to the warmest
temperature that you find comfortable – you shouldn’t need to wear a
sweater because the AC is running.
You can also make more permanent changes to reduce the need for air conditioning. Insulation is not just for winter warmth; it also prevents your home from heating up quickly on a hot day. Sealing air leaks
reduces 15% to 25% of heat gain in summer and prevents cool air from
escaping when the air conditioner is running. Think outside the house,
too. Your landscaping can help keep your home more comfortable by shading walls and roofs and by directing breezes.
Minimizing the Impact of Your AC
A programmable thermostat
can automatically optimize the time and temperature settings on your
air conditioner so that you don’t keep the house too cold when you’re
away or have to ramp up the AC when you return home. On average, Energy Star-rated thermostats save users 8% on their energy bills and can make an even bigger difference in extreme climates.
Regular maintenance keeps any appliance working efficiently. Clogged
air conditioner filters cause the AC to work harder pushing air through
them. Regularly cleaning and replacing the filters is an easy and
inexpensive way to cut your air conditioner’s energy use.
Shopping for a Cooler AC
If your home is small enough, or if you only need to cool one room, a window unit will use less energy than a central air conditioning system, where duct losses account for up to 30% of energy use. A ductless mini-split
is even better because it won’t lose air through ducts or window gaps.
Central cooling becomes the more efficient choice if you need more than
two window units. Regardless of whether you buy a room air conditioner or a central cooling unit, look for one that is Energy Star-rated. There is a federal tax credit for Energy Star Most Efficient central AC units.
Central air conditioners require a blower motor, which is usually
part of the furnace. A new energy-efficient air conditioner connected to
an older furnace blower motor will not perform to its rated efficiency.
For the most efficient system, replace your AC and furnace at the same
time (or at least close together). If you are ready to replace both
systems, consider an air-source heat pump instead. These can replace both your home’s heating and cooling systems. Energy Star heat pumps are significantly more efficient than other heating and cooling options and qualify for federal rebates.
We do not have AC here in our house, neither do our kids in theirs. We had the choice but we like fresh air blowing through and ceiling fans do a pretty great job. Air conditioning units are expensive to run and if they are not cleaned properly and often they pass viruses around and other grotty germs.
With the cost of electricity rising, and the relatively short lifespan of them they are to me a waste of money. Obviously for the elderly and people who are ill they are necessary, otherwise they should be avoided (in my humble opinion).
The blog song for today is: "Play that funky music" by Wild Cherry
Support Builds for Snake River Dam Breaching as Salmon Face Extinction
Time is running out for salmon and steelhead on the northwest river
Photographer: Neil Ever Osborne.
Courtesy of Save Our Wild Salmon Coalition.
By
Tatum McConnell
October 13, 2022
Before
the dams, a juvenile Chinook salmon would aim its shining, paper-thin
fins toward the Pacific Ocean and set out for an over one-thousand-mile
migration alongside a million of its cousins. About 80 percent survived
the journey. Those 800,000 fish would spend several years in the salty
expanses, eating smaller ocean creatures and growing plump bodies,
destined to return up the rivers to lay their eggs, feed humans and
wildlife, and sow the forest floor with ocean nutrients.
Today, only 7,000 spring and summer Chinook salmon make that journey.
Dam crossings, tepid reservoir waters, and an ocean ravaged by
climate change have decimated their numbers. About 40 percent of spring
and summer Chinook populations from the Snake River are at the threshold
for quasi-extinction, meaning they will likely go extinct, according to
research from the Nez Perce Tribe. This group of fish is watched
closely for its significance for feeding both orca whales and people.
For Snake River coho and sockeye salmon, the outlook is even bleaker.
Each year, about 100 individual coho salmon and 46 sockeye salmon
survive their migration and return to spawn—less than 1 percent of
historic levels.
Breaching the four dams on the Lower Snake River is the “centerpiece
action” for recovering its salmon and steelhead populations, the
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration concluded in a report
released on September 30, 2022. The agency is charged with protecting
threatened and endangered species in marine habitats, including five
struggling salmon and steelhead stocks on the Snake River. They say that
dam breaching needs to happen as soon as possible, in addition to other
actions like predator management and habitat restoration.
These recommendations come as political energy builds for breaching
Snake River dams. Washington governor Jay Inslee and Senator Patty
Murray (D) announced a plan to prepare for dam breaching in August. The
prior year, Idaho representative Mike Simpson (R) unveiled his support
for a dam-breaching process. Meanwhile, the Biden-Harris administration
has prioritized Columbia River fish recovery. But the Murray-Inslee
recommendations point out that the dams provide energy, transportation,
irrigation, and recreation for the surrounding region, and they say that
the dams cannot be breached until those benefits are replaced or
mitigated.
For the area’s Indigenous people, these first steps toward breaching
are long overdue. Their treaty rights guarantee fishing access at “usual
and accustomed grounds.” Yet the dams have driven the fish to the brink
of extinction, and many important cultural sites are found under the
reservoir waters held by the Snake River dams.
“The low returns severely limit how our tribe members can exercise
their treaty reserve rights,” says Chairman Samuel Penney of the Nez
Perce Tribe. “We’ve stated to the federal government that we expect them
to uphold those treaties and the commitment they made to the Nez Perce
Tribe in 1855.”
The Nez Perce Reservation lies five miles east of the Snake River,
which stretches over 1,000 miles from its origin in the Rocky Mountains,
across Idaho, and into the Columbia River in eastern Washington. The
river once ran thick with fish, and the population initially declined
due to overharvesting and mining. As far back as 1944, damming the Snake
River was recognized as “the greatest threat to the maintenance of the
Columbia River salmon population,” according to a US Fish and Wildlife
report to the Army Corps.
Nonetheless, by the mid-1970s four dams had been constructed in the
Washington stretch of the Snake River, an insurmountable barrier for
many salmon and steelhead during their migrations out to the ocean and
back to their natal streams.
Today, “you can walk miles upstream and not see any fish,” says Jay
Hesse, director of biological services for the Nez Perce Tribe. “I’m
continually amazed that the salmon can find each other over those large
landscapes and spawn.”
The dams pose myriad risks to migrating fish. Many are killed or
injured passing through the turbines, and they struggle to make it
through the warm, still reservoir waters the dams create. (Their natural
migration route would instead take the fish through cold, fast-moving
waters.) The dams create choke points where predators like sea lions and
pikeminnow can gather to feast on the salmon and steelhead runs. Once
the fish make it through this gauntlet, they enter an ocean artificially
heated by climate change.
“It’s been long established and recognized that if these dams remain,
these fish will disappear,” says Joseph Bogaard, executive director of
the Washington-based organization Save Our Wild Salmon.
Salmon once spent about one to two days passing through the 140-mile
stretch that’s home to four dams. That single section of their migration
now takes five to 15 days. And even if the fish don’t die on the
migration route, the added stressors and injuries from dams can often
lead to delayed mortality, meaning that more fish die in the ocean after
they’ve finished their migration.
Yet the dams benefit the surrounding region in ways that can’t be
overlooked, the recommendations from Governor Inslee and Senator Murray
emphasize: “We are adamant that in any circumstance where the Lower
Snake River dams would be breached, the replacement and mitigation of
their benefits must be pursued before decommissioning and breaching.”
This means replacing the dams’ 3500-megawatt (MW) energy capacity
with other renewable sources, adding new rail and trucking routes for
agricultural products currently moved on barges through the dams, and
mitigating the loss of the boating recreation economy. The price tag for
the benefit replacement process could be between $10.3 billion and
$31.3 billion, according to a summary of independent reviews.
The Bonneville Power Administration, the federal agency that manages
the Snake River dams’ energy production, warns that a renewable energy
transition away from the dams would require “impractically high levels
of additional onshore wind, offshore wind, and battery storage.” They
say that costs could be increased by the implementation of clean energy
policies in Washington and Oregon.
Yet Governor Inslee and Senator Murray’s recommendations say that the
energy transition is possible. They argue it’s an “oversimplified
binary choice” to say that hydropower from the dams is the only way to
preserve reliable renewable energy.
New federal funds could be an important stepping stone for the dam
energy transition: “The infrastructure bill that Congress passed last
fall and the Inflation Reduction Act passed this summer provide a huge
down payment to start making the investments,” says Bill Arthur, chair
of the Columbia/Snake River Salmon Campaign for the Sierra Club. He
emphasizes that while the changes can’t happen overnight, they’re
feasible to achieve.
At the Nez Perce Reservation, the process to replace dam benefits is
well underway. The tribe has undertaken an energy transition program
called Nimiipuu Energy to produce renewable energy on the reservation.
“The goal of Nimiipuu Energy is to develop and build 531 MW of power and
energy storage,” says Penney. Achieving that goal would make up for 15
percent of the dams’ current energy capacity.
“Here on our own reservation, we’ve installed solar on some of our
government buildings, our housing, our health care, our fisheries
offices,” Penney says. The Nez Perce Tribe is partnering with other
tribes to develop a “virtual power plant” by creating new renewable
energy production across the region. They also plan to harness funds
from the Inflation Reduction Act, such as the renewable energy tax
credit and other rebate programs, to bolster the energy replacement
process.
This transition is necessary because while sectors like energy,
irrigation, and shipping can adapt, the salmon are at their limit, Hesse
says. “The [Nez Perce] Tribe’s policy position to breach the Lower
Snake dams includes the reality to keep local communities and all
impacted groups whole,” he explains.
All of the salmon and steelhead on the Snake River are listed under
the Endangered Species Act, along with other Columbia River populations,
and the government has spent about 38 years and $24 billion to restore
their numbers, says Bogaard of Save Our Wild Salmon. Despite that, “we
haven’t recovered a single population for a very long time,” he says.
“Let’s put those dollars into a scientifically credible program … rather
than continuing to put money in places that clearly aren’t delivering
bang for the buck.”
Some of that conservation spending has gone toward restoring habitat
downstream of the Snake. Meanwhile, the Snake River supports “pristine,
high-quality habitat” throughout Idaho, says Arthur. He adds that the
river is generally at higher elevations, where the water can remain at
the cool temperatures salmon and steelhead prefer.
Arthur hopes to see the benefit replacements in place and the dams
breached “by the end of this decade.” Bogaard agrees: “The timeline that
we’ve got to work with is measured in single-digit years if we’re going
to be able to act in time to avoid extinction.”
So far, 2022 has offered a brief reprieve for Snake River salmon. The
runs are stronger than the dire numbers seen in previous years. This is
likely thanks to a legal agreement that required federal agencies to
spill water over the top of the dams starting in 2019, providing salmon
with a safer migration route. Since salmon often spend a few years in
the ocean, the fish now returning are the first that benefitted from the
spillover agreement. This summer also saw slightly cooler ocean
temperatures, which could have benefitted the fish.
Although 2022’s stronger returns help stave off extinction, they’re
still too low to create long-term population recovery, Hesse says.
While Chairman Penney supports the recent momentum for dam breaching,
he’s ready to move past the studies and reports: “I was first elected
in 1989, so I’ve seen the entire 30 years of how it’s gone through the
courts, and we’re still at status quo and the salmon are on the brink of
extinction.”
Tatum McConnell is a Sierra magazine fellow and
freelance journalist launching a career in environmental journalism. She
loves to write about conservation, ecology, and life in its myriad
forms. She studied environmental biology at Columbia University and is
currently a graduate student at NYU’s Science, Health and Environmental
Reporting Program. You can find her writing at Scientific American, Scienceline, and formerly at Vital Ground.
It just seems to me that human beings seem to be intent on destroying everything we touch. What a sad report to read. We consume too much and need to reduce it, if everyone just made a small lifestyle change then it would make a difference.
The blog song for today is: "Crying" by Don Mclean
Global Leaders as Paradigms for Fighting Climate Change at the Federal Level
October 5, 2022
As the modern environmental crisis continues to ravage countries and
the global population, global policy and legislation are shifting away
from a concentrated anthropocentric perspective towards a more holistic
approach. This method encapsulates environmental and animal health
alongside that of human health. Sustainability and efforts to mitigate
the root causes of climate change are becoming increasingly central
themes in the enactment of new legislation and governmental action.
The governmental leaders of Finland, Singapore, and Portugal have
become models for efficient and effective adjusted policy in their hopes
of transitioning to more sustainable societies. Not only do all of
these nations belong to the Paris Accord and have ratified the Kyoto Protocol, but they have vouched for their participation in COP27.
Finland
One of the most radical climate action proposals in history is fueled
by the passionate young Prime Minister of Finland: Sanna Marin. She is
being globally revered for her ambitious proposals some of which include
an augmented Climate Change Act
now aiming to make Finland carbon neutral by 2035 and fossil-fuel free
by 2030 in the energy sector. Marin is spearheading projects to bolster
their carbon sinks and sequestration efforts through the conservation
and expansion of peatlands.
In her speech to Columbia University,
Marin highlighted that the Nordic welfare model implemented in Finland
allows for a more dynamic approach to issues posed by the climate
crisis. Thus, this progressive societal structure lays the foundation
for Finland to maintain efforts towards Green Transition and Circular Economy
goals. The active circular economy proposal aims to increase the
productivity of natural resources through recycling and reduction in
waste along all stages of the production process. The Finnish Sustainable Growth Programme and the Sustainable Development Goals formulated by the United Nations have become tangible in the city of Helsinki.
There, a human centered model, urban forestry projects, and an emphasis
on ecological synergy has created an internationally recognized urban
model for development. Moreover, this city has been influential in the
inception of interwoven human and nature schematic concepts.
We will build the world’s first fossil fuel free welfare society
Sanna Marin, Columbia University, 2020
Portugal
João Pedro Matos Fernandes, the President of Portugal, is another
leader pioneering progressive responses to the climate crisis. In
collaboration with the Ministerio de Ambiente e Acao Climatica (Ministry
of Environment and Climate Action) the Strategic Framework for the Climate, more commonly known as QEPiC,
has been curated. This umbrella framework comprises 6 sub-projects: the
National Climate Change Programme 2030, National Climate and Energy
Plan 2030, National ETS, National Action Plan for Renewable Energies,
National Action Plan for Energy Efficacy, and the National Air
Strategy.
Alongside QEPiC, Fernandes has enacted the Climate Basis Law and has constructed an extensive Environmental Fund. The most aggressive goals for Portugal are their commitment to carbon neutrality
before 2050 paired with a targeted 55% reduction in greenhouse gas
emissions that will be achieved through an incremental process of
electrifying the economy. Businesses must adhere to a carbon trading
scheme which revolves around obtaining a permit, annual recertification,
and filing environmental impact assessments.
Portugal is taking an economic approach to climate resolution by
reallocating funds and divesting financial capital from fossil fuel
corporations to solar energy projects. By closing their last operational
coal power plant,
Portugal is phasing out their reliance on nonrenewable resources.
Because of these policies there has been a 40% increase in the shares of
renewable resource corporations subsequently incentivizing companies to
evolve towards more sustainable modes of operation.
Singapore
Regarded as the Greenest Asian City,
Singapore is another country front-running the war against climate
change. Led by Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong, Singapore was among the
first 20 nations to submit their long term climate strategy known as the
Green Plan 2030 to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC).
This plan is made up of 5 initiatives: City in Nature, which focuses
on carbon sequestration and increasing biodiversity; Sustainable Living,
which highlights recycling waste and water; Green Commutes, which has
contributed to freezing the growth of the vehicle population; Green
Economy, which includes the Enterprise Sustainability Program; and Resilient Future, which emphasizes local food production and combating rising sea levels.
Loong is also taking a grassroots approach to Singapore’s climate plan by implementing an EcoStewardship Program
in schools to cultivate an impassioned youth population. Education is
taking a central role in Singapore’s action. Outside of school, citizens
and international populations alike are learning about how to construct
a city that integrates environmental and human health needs based on
Singapore’s sustainable development projects.
With a successful Green Investment Program,
Singapore is funding projects such as planting 1 million trees in 2023,
constructing floating solar energy systems, and operating on a closed
water loop. They follow a biophilic-inspired design and have prompted global urban ecology and sustainable development movements as they continue to build a City in a Garden.
Ahead of COP27, EARTHDAY.ORG’s Invest In Our Planet
asks that governments step up to fight climate change. Finland,
Portugal, and Singapore and their leaders are acting as paradigms for
other nations and populations to follow in terms of action that
government officials can take to influence civic participation, enforce
eco-business remodeling, create substantial climate engagement, and
foster sustainable development.
Well done Finland, Portugal and Singapore, they are leading the way, it is encouraging to read about this, let's hope that there are other countries doing the same.
The blog song for today is: "There must be an angel" by the Eurythmics
Ocean Robbins·Published August 24, 2022
· 12min read
Summary
Cashews are incredibly versatile nuts (well, drupes),
providing creaminess and flavor to Indian and other Asian dishes,
commercial dairy analogs, and homemade nut cheeses and “nice” creams.
They’re also quite nutritious. Unfortunately, the cashew industry is
known for mistreating its workers. So is there a way to enjoy the taste
and health benefits of cashews while not contributing to horrible
working conditions?
Some things only appear expensive until you understand what goes into
them. Charging $60 to change the oil and filter in your car might seem
like highway robbery unless you’ve tried it yourself. After buying the
oil, the air filter, the pan to catch the drippings, and the weirdly
angled plastic funnel, you’ll already be out $40. And then there’s
crawling under the vehicle, wrestling open the drainage nut, getting
dirty and uncomfortable, and having to deal with bottling and recycling
the old oil. All of a sudden, paying someone fairly to do it for you
might look like quite a bargain.
When you go to the grocery store and see a bag of cashews going for
around $15 a pound or more, you might also resent the high price. But
when you learn how cashews are processed, so you can eat them for a snack or turn them into creamy plant-based sauces and dips, you’ll have a new appreciation for how much they cost.
Many plant-based eaters depend upon cashews for raising their
culinary game. From cashew butter to cashew milk to cashew cheese and
yogurt, to Indian, Southeast Asian, and African dishes enhanced by crunchy and creamy cashew pieces, this drupe has enabled dairy-free cooks to mimic much of the richness of cow’s milk without harming animals or degrading the environment.
And they’re not only versatile and delicious — as unofficial members of the nut family — cashews also pack a nutritional punch.
But cashews have a somber side, too, as we’ve learned by paying
attention to their production and where they come from — and the ethical
issues that surround their journey from tree to table. In this article,
we’re going to look at the pros and cons of cashews, from their health
benefits and culinary uses to ethical and sustainability concerns.
Where Do Cashews Come From?
iStock.com/olovedog
As you might expect, cashews come from the cashew tree, a
tropical plant that originated in Brazil and has been cultivated in many
other tropical regions of the globe. Vietnam and India are considered the top producers of cashews, but that’s a misleading designation. Poorer countries like Ivory Coast, Burundi, and Benin are among the largest exporters
of cashews. But they are not considered producers because what they
export has to undergo extensive processing before it reaches edible
form.
It turns out that cashews aren’t really nuts. Rather, they’re drupe
seeds, like almonds — and plum and peach pits. To further muddle things
up, these nuts-that-aren’t-really-nuts grow at the bottom of a fruit
called a “cashew apple,” which isn’t really a fruit, but what’s known as
a “false fruit” because it doesn’t form from the ovary of the plant.
The cashew apple is also edible but rarely exported since it has a
short shelf life and doesn’t travel well. Within its countries of
origin, the cashew apple
is often juiced or dried, cooked into curries, fermented into vinegar,
or used to make preserves, chutneys, and jams. In the Indian state of
Goa, it’s fermented and distilled to make a seriously alcoholic drink
known as feni. And it has many medicinal uses as well.
At the base of the cashew apple grows a kidney-bean-shaped hard shell
with a single seed inside. That seed is the cashew “nut,” but don’t
even think about picking it, cracking it open, and eating it like you
would a walnut or pecan. As I said, that nut needs to be processed
almost beyond recognition.
Now that we’re staring directly at the weirdness of this plant, guess
what it’s related to botanically. If you said “poison ivy,” you’d be
right. And as we’ll see a little later, that fact is why cashews
represent huge occupational challenges for the workers who process them
for our benefit.
Cashew Nutrition Facts
iStock.com/Manivannan Thirugnanasambandam
Cashews are a good source of plant-based protein. They’re also pretty high in fat, providing a mix of saturated and unsaturated fats. And like other plant-based sources of fat, cashews reduce your risk of premature death when you substitute them for animal-based fats.
Cashews are about the micronutrients as much as the macros. They’re a good source
of vitamin K and B vitamins, as well as important minerals like iron,
magnesium, phosphorus, zinc, copper, and manganese. They’re also a
decent source of the elusive mineral selenium. And in a victory for
those of us who prefer roasted nuts (and drupes!) to raw ones, it
appears that roasting cashews actually increases their antioxidant power.
Cashews also contain so-called “antinutrients” like lectins, phytates, and oxalates,
which, despite what some wellness influencers claim, are not a problem
for most people. If you want to maximize mineral absorption, you can
neutralize the effect of these compounds by soaking your cashews for a
few hours, or eating them with allium vegetables (such as onions and garlic) or foods containing vitamin C.
If you’re looking to lose weight, keep in mind that the high-fat content of cashews, coupled with their very low water content, means they are high in calories.
In fact, an ounce of cashews delivers a whopping 155 calories, which
comes out to almost 2,500 calories per pound. And given that they’re
often roasted and salted to make them even more delicious, they’re
pretty darn easy to overeat.
Health Benefits of Cashews
What do we know about how eating cashews can support your health?
Cashews and Heart Health
For starters, cashews appear to promote cardiovascular health. A 2017
study of American adults with high LDL (“bad”) cholesterol found that when they ate more cashews, their LDL levels dropped while their HDL (“good”) cholesterol remained constant.
In an Iranian study
of type 2 diabetics published in 2019, one group was asked to consume
10% of their calories from cashews. The control group ate the same
number of calories, but without the cashews. The cashew group didn’t
gain weight but did see their cholesterol shift to a much more favorable
ratio of “good” to “bad” cholesterol.
A meta-analysis
of five other modest studies on cashews and cardiac health published
that same year found that cashew consumption was correlated with lower
triglyceride levels and lower systolic and diastolic blood pressure.
Cashews and Bone Health
The nutrients in cashews, and particularly the minerals magnesium and copper,
appear to support bone and joint health, too. Male rats with
chemically-induced osteoarthritis (ugh — our view on the use of animals
in medical research is here) who were fed cashew nuts demonstrated fewer and less severe “pain-like behaviors” and had improved pain-related biomarkers.
Are Cashews Good for Your Brain?
Also thanks to their tryptophan content, cashews may protect the
brain and nervous system from the effects of aging — specifically, they
may slow cognitive decline.
Cashews and Depression
Cashews may also help enhance your mood, and not just because they’re
so darn yummy. They’re one of the richest sources of the amino acid tryptophan, a precursor to the neurotransmitter serotonin
— one of the body’s endogenous antidepressants. The magnesium in
cashews also fights depression and anxiety through its positive effects
on the nervous system. It’s also crucial for maintaining stable blood
sugar levels (which are also relevant to your mood).
What About Cashew Allergies?
Tree nuts represent one of the seven major allergenic food categories.
Despite not being true tree nuts, cashews can still be potent
allergens, causing severe reactions in susceptible people that can
persist long-term, compared with some other food allergies. Both children and adults can be affected.
While the prevalence of cashew allergy appears to be increasing, it’s
still relatively uncommon. A 2021 study of over 500 children with food
allergies found that just over 3% of them showed sensitivity to cashews. The percentage among the general population is likely far lower.
With a couple of exceptions, cashews are good for the people eating
them. But what about their effects on the planet and agricultural
workers?
Are Cashews Sustainable?
iStock.com/natbits
Cashews perform surprisingly well in most measures of sustainability. In terms of water use, they’re just a little less thirsty than almonds,
which are among the crops requiring the most hydration. But unlike
almonds grown in the US, cashews are mostly harvested from trees in
their natural environment, the tropics. So they receive their water
allotment from rain (also known as “green water”) rather than the
underground aquifers that supply the almond trees in drought-prone
California.
True, that means the cashews consumed in the US are imports, which adds to their carbon footprint. But this is offset somewhat by the trees’ ability to sequester carbon in their biomass and in the soil.
Dairy substitutes made from cashews, such as milk, yogurt,
spreads, and cheeses, are far more environmentally friendly than their dairy counterparts, especially when you consider greenhouse gas emissions.
Adding to the cashew advantage, the by-products
of cashew processing have many other uses. The shell oil (which,
confusingly, isn’t an oil, but rather a mixture of cardol and anacardic
acid) appears in over 200 different patents. It’s an ingredient in
things that must resist friction, heat, and acids, such as brake linings
and clutch plates for the automotive industry, and also helps make glue
and lightweight carbon-composite products such as rockets and high-end
kayaks.
Cashew wood is also remarkably insect-resistant and favored for
packing crates and bookcases. And the gum of the cashew tree works as an
insect-repellent glue in bookbinding.
Should You Buy Organic Cashews?
Another plus for the planet is that a lot of cashew farming in Vietnam, Thailand, and India (major suppliers of the US market) occurs on “small, often wild or naturalized plantations” that don’t use any fertilizers or pesticides.
This doesn’t mean that the cashews you buy are guaranteed to be organic, though. There is a trend to apply pesticides
even to naturally pest-resistant cashews, as they’ve been shown to
slightly increase yield. The good news is that cashew nuts naturally
have two protective coverings — the outer shell and the inner “testa”
layer — shielding them from the direct application of pesticides. FDA testing
did not find pesticide residue in most of the cashews it sampled. And
so, you don’t have to buy organic cashews to avoid pesticides — although
buying organic is generally better for people and the planet.
Overall, cashews are relatively sustainable, especially in comparison to meat and dairy.
Cashew Ethics
iStock.com/gaborbasch
But while cashews can be nutritious and environmentally sustainable,
the cashew industry is unfortunately notable for its track record of
harming workers. To understand the scope and severity of the problem,
let’s first look at what has to happen for cashews to get from a tree to
your mouth.
Cashew Processing
First, it’s extremely labor intensive to harvest the nuts. Each
cashew apple has one nut, which workers must harvest by hand. (One of
the reasons they’re so expensive compared to many other nuts.)
The main issue, however, is that the cashews are toxic to the touch
before and during processing. The shell that surrounds each cashew nut
contains the toxic oil urushiol, which is the active ingredient in
poison ivy. When urushiol touches human skin, it causes rashes, itching, blistering, and swelling.
As if that isn’t bad enough, the shell is also a source of phenolic
resin, which contains formaldehyde and anacardic acid, which is also a
powerful skin irritant.
Cashew nut consumers don’t have to worry about any of these compounds because they’re removed during processing. Once the shells are peeled, dried, and subjected to heat, there are no more toxins.
Harmful Effects on Cashew Workers
Unfortunately, the workers doing the cutting, peeling, drying, and
heating of cashew processing experience all these side effects during
their long daily shifts. Since they’re paid when they meet production
quotas, rather than an hourly wage, they have to rush just to make the
equivalent of $2–3 per day. And rushing while hand-cutting or peeling
the fragile drupes leads to nasty skin burns.
Gloves would help but are not common for three reasons. First, the
factories that employ the cashew processors (who are nearly all women)
force them to pay for their own gloves. Second, the thin gloves that
workers can afford often break, rendering them useless. And third, the
women say that gloves make the work harder, slow them down, and keep
them from earning what they need to feed their families.
Here’s an 8-minute heartbreaking video that shows why cashews are so expensive.
And it illustrates the effects of cashew processing on a group of women
in Sri Lanka. Trigger Warning: it shows disturbing images of the skin
damage the women experience due to constant exposure to the corrosive oils and acids in the cashew shells.
Other Cashew Industry Labor Issues
As you can imagine, the only people who take such jobs are those with few other options. In fact, a Human Rights Watch (HRW) report
from 2011 revealed that Vietnamese cashew processing facilities were
forced-labor camps for those convicted of being drug addicts. TIME magazine reported
that prisoners who resisted were “beaten with truncheons, given
electric shocks, locked in isolation, deprived of food and water, and
obliged to work even longer hours…”
And very few workers are covered by health insurance, even when such coverage is mandatory by the government.
In response to all this, there are now global campaigns working to end the horrific practices of the “blood cashew” industry.
Fair-Trade Cashews
Not all cashew plantations and processing plants engage in the
heinous — and profitable — practices described above. If you want to
enjoy cashews and cashew products without contributing to the
mistreatment of workers, you can.
One fair-trade cashew brand that I like is Beyond the Nut
— and you can receive 10% off your first order from them with the code
FOODREV10. Another fair-trade cashew brand you might want to check out
is Uprise Foods, which you can purchase on Amazon here.
These companies work with facilities that provide a fair wage, provide
castor oil for workers to coat their skin to prevent weeping sores
(while keeping their hands nimble enough to do the work), and give back
to the local communities to help lift them out of poverty.
How to Store Cashews
iStock.com/Almaje
Once you’ve bought fair-trade cashews, make sure you store them
properly so you can enjoy them. It’s best to keep them in an airtight
container — glass jars and silicone bags
work nicely. If you have a large quantity that you aren’t going to use
up quickly, store them in your refrigerator or freezer, where they can
last for up to six months.
If you keep cashews in your pantry, make sure to protect them from
light and heat; that way, you can enjoy them for up to three months.
Like other nuts (and drupes!), cashews can go bad
if stored for too long in unfavorable conditions. Cashews will go
rancid when exposed to light, air, and heat for too long. You’ll know if
your cashews are ready for the compost if they have a harsh and bitter
taste or an odor that reminds you of old paint or nail polish remover.
How to Use Cashews
You can, of course, snack on cashews all by themselves. You can also
add them to recipes or use them as toppings for both sweet and savory
dishes.
Here are some typical uses for cashews:
On their own or on a charcuterie board as a snack; raw or roasted with herbs, spices, or even lemon juice
Mixed into trail mix, granola, or energy balls
Cashew butter
Made into another sauce or condiment like cashew sour cream or a cashew spread
Cashew cheese
Used as a topping for stir-fry and other Asian dishes
As a topping for plant-based yogurt or oatmeal
Made into cashew milk or yogurt
Cashew Recipes
Homemade yogurt is an economical, nutritious, and delicious base in a
range of recipes. Cashew cheese in an already-tasty, feeds-a-crowd
veggie casserole, ups the “everyone will love this” quotient, just about
ensuring that not a bite will go to waste. And, seasoned and roasted
cashews become that special something that will delight your taste buds —
a few will go a long way, either as a snack or in elevating your
favorite dishes (plus, they store well!).
1. Easy Homemade Cashew Yogurt
This super simple, five-ingredient, plant-based yogurt will get you
excited to be in the kitchen! Because cashews have a decent amount of
plant-based fat, they create that creamy mouthfeel of traditional
yogurt. Easy Homemade Cashew Yogurt is certainly worth the wait while
healthy bacteria do their job making it nice and tangy. Check out the
Chef’s Notes for all the ways you can use this creamy treat.
2. Broccoli Potato Casserole with Cashew Cheese
Cashews are a magical plant-based ingredient that easily blends into a
silky and creamy dairy-free cheese or sauce to enhance just about any
recipe. In Broccoli Potato Casserole with Cashew Cheese — a comforting,
creamy, and mouthwatering meal — they are truly a game changer! This
wholesomely cheesy casserole is an ideal plant-based dish for the entire
family!
3. Chili-Spiced Roasted Cashews
Their slightly sweet yet neutral flavor makes cashews a perfect
vehicle for the creative use of your favorite flavors, herbs, and spices
(and roasting them makes them even more deliciously nutty!). Here,
fresh lime, fragrant chili powder, and robust tones of garlic make way
for a slightly sweet and savory snack — for any time a crunchy craving
hits. What’s more, you can add them to your favorite savory plant-based
dishes for an extra kick of flavor and crunch!
Enjoy Cashews Responsibly
The cashew is a delicious “nut” that can be enjoyed as is, and also
makes a versatile substitute for dairy. It’s healthy and nutritious,
though some people need to avoid it because of allergies. And because
cashew processing plants have a track record of mistreating and
underpaying their employees, I recommend choosing only fair-trade
certified cashews, even if they cost a bit more than regular brands.
I found this a very interesting and informative report! I didn't realise they had so many different uses!
The blog song for today is: "She loves you" by the Beatles
The MO of “fast fashion” brands is to mass-produce trendy designs at a low cost. While some brands are working on a greener selection, we know that greenwashing, waste, and human rights violations abound in the fashion industry.
Emma Mathews, founder of the sustainable British sock brand Socko and author of How to Quit Fast Fashion: 100 Expert Tips for a Sustainable Wardrobe advised us on how to take meaningful steps towards quitting fast fashion.
Learn the True Cost of Fast Fashion
Clothing is more than the sum of its materials. Behind every garment
are people, water, agriculture, energy, and transportation emissions,
and much more.
The fashion industry produces more carbon emissions than
international flights and maritime shipping combined, and is the
second-largest consumer of the world’s water supply — despite this, 85%
of all textiles end up in the dump each year.” –How to Quit Fast Fashion
In Mathews’ view, the hazards of fast fashion are greatest for
textile and garment workers and the environment. “Clothes don’t
magically appear. Think about the number of hands that handle that
garment before it gets to you, about how much you pay versus what the
person is paid — after retail and shipping costs — for something
designed to be throwaway.”
Garment makers work in appalling conditions because retailers, to satisfy demand, prioritize low-cost clothing over people’s lives. One of the starkest examples is the 2013 Rana Plaza fire in Bangladesh, the fourth largest industrial disaster in history, during which 1,100 people died and another 2,500 were injured.
Reevaluating your relationship with fast fashion means reconciling with the environmental and human costs,
but Mathews is adamant that preaching isn’t the goal. On the contrary,
“it’s about providing tools so consumers can make the decision for
themselves.”
Tips To Help You Quit Fast Fashion
Rethink Your Closet
“Even if we stopped production tomorrow, we have enough to clothe the next two generations,” says Mathews.
So, it’s not that we need more clothes — it’s that we’re bored with what we have.
Form a stronger bond with your wardrobe. As the
fashion industry adage goes, “The most sustainable clothes are the ones
you already own.” To this, Mathews adds, “The back of the wardrobe is
almost like being in a landfill” — if you don’t wear those clothes,
you’re only putting off the inevitable.
Dig around in the back of your drawers. If you can’t salvage that T-shirt, who can? Consider donations, clothing swaps,
or giving your garments away — and be realistic. If you haven’t worn it
in the last year or two, it may be time to say goodbye.
Flirt with the capsule wardrobe. Take a page from the minimalist playbook and consider paring down to a capsule wardrobe,
an approach that favors essential clothing items that don’t go out of
fashion, augmented by seasonal pieces. Which are your seasonless
staples? What can you easily mix and match?
Enhance Your Existing Wardrobe
Lessening your clothing’s impact on our ecosystem doesn’t have to mean sacrificing style.
Old clothing favorites can take on new flair with the right jewelry, belts, shoes, bags, or glasses.
Exploring your family’s vintage collection or shopping secondhand are cost-friendly alternatives to fast fashion.
Cut, dye, tailor, taper, sew, paint … the possibilities are endless.
Dying your old jeans requires a lot less water than what it takes to
create a new pair.
Make Your Clothing Last
It’s in your hands as a consumer to take care of your clothing.
Instead of buying new, learn fundamental preservation principles from
“way back when.”
Don’t ignore the tags. Tags display how to wash, bleach, iron, and otherwise care for our clothes. If you’re not sure how to read clothing tags, check this guide.
Dive into YouTube. “People shouldn’t be daunted by
material repair! With textiles, you can undo a stitch as if it was
Control-Z,” says Mathews. You can learn everything from how to thread a
needle to patching a hole within a few hours from YouTube videos. Plus,
“once you know the rules, you can break them and go rogue.”
Forget the sewing machine. You can make successful
repairs with hand techniques — and it may even be easier because you can
move the material around more flexibly. Start with Mathews’ denim repair tutorial in the highlights of Socko’s Instagram. She’ll soon be launching her own holistic clothing repair course.
Shop With Sustainability in Mind
Paying a fair price for clothing does mean it will be more
expensive, Mathews says. That’s why consumers have to make a mindset
shift between wanting a quick pick-me-up and thinking for all seasons.
Shop sparingly. Set a goal of not shopping for just 30 days and work up. When you do shop, ask yourself what you really
need. Don’t beat yourself up about past purchases: “If you love and
wear an item day in and day out, then there’s nothing to be ashamed of.”
Research ethical certifications, including certifications of fair trade textiles and organic materials. Buy as local and fair as possible.
Make the change. “People are programmed to think cheap prices on the discount rack are the going rate.” While you may pay more for ethical brands
that have a takeback scheme or go the extra mile to help you mend your
purchase (for example, Socko includes a darning kit with every
purchase), you’re investing in a piece that will last you a lifetime —
and supporting the safety and livelihoods of garment workers.
Final Thoughts About Fast Fashion
What makes it onto the clothing racks represents a give and take
between brands and consumers. Since our closets don’t exist in a vacuum,
both have a vested interest in designing for a circular economy and
wearing for the long term.
Mathews believes retailers should educate consumers about the
longevity of their items, and that we need legislation to regulate the
fashion industry and protect garment workers. Changing consumer
preferences are already making a positive impact, but there’s no quick
fix.
That’s why brands, as well as consumers, must continue probing the
way clothing production and consumption are interlinked. “If you want to
have a sustainable business and lifestyle, How can you justify against
what the planet needs?”
As usual, a very useful article. It just confirms that the impact of not buying brand new clothes is noticeable, especially in these times of high prices and climate change! I like to go to our local second hand shops and have often got some real bargains!
The blog song for today is: "Lessons in love" by Level 42
We explain how ground source heat pumps work, and the pros and cons, so you can decide whether one may be right for you.
Which? Team
A ground source heat pump system harnesses natural heat from underground by pumping water through it in pipes.
The heat pump then increases the temperature, and the heat is used to provide home heating or hot water.
They need electricity to run, but the idea is that they use less electrical energy than the heat they produce.
The
pump performs the same role as a boiler in a central heating system.
But it uses ambient heat from the ground, rather than burning fuel to
generate heat.
Read on to find out more on how a ground source heat pump works, and to see whether it's right for your home.
How ground source heat pumps work
Ground
source heat pump systems are made up of a ground loop (a network of
water pipes buried underground) and a heat pump at ground level.
A
mixture of water and anti-freeze is pumped around the ground loop and
absorbs the naturally occurring heat stored in the ground.
The
water mixture is compressed and goes through a heat exchanger, which
extracts the heat and transfers it to the heat pump. The heat is then
transferred to your home heating system.
Ground source heat pump uses fluid to absorb heat from the ground.
Using electricity, the fluid is compressed and raised to a higher temperature.
Heat is sent to radiators or underfloor heating - the remainder is stored in a hot water cylinder.
Stored hot water can be used for showers, baths and taps.
How much space do I need?
You'll need plenty of space for the system to be installed - generally a garden that's accessible for digging machinery.
How big the ground loop needs to be depends on how big your home is and how much heat you need.
How warm is ground source heating?
A
ground source heat pump can increase the temperature from the ground to
around 50°C, although the hotter you heat your water, the more
electricity you'll use.
You can then use this heat in a radiator, for hot water, or in an underfloor heating system. Whether you'll need an additional back-up heating system will depend on your property.
Alternatively,
you could try an air source heat pump. These are usually placed outside
at the side or back of a property, and take heat from the air. For more
details, see our separate guide to air source heat pumps.
Pros and cons of ground source heat pumps
Ground
source heat pumps generate less CO2 than conventional heating systems,
but you still need to use electricity to drive the pump. That means they
can’t be considered completely zero-carbon unless the electricity is
provided by a renewable source.
The
Energy Saving Trust (EST) says an 'average' ground source heat pump
could save you up to £1,400 a year, or could add up to £65 to your
annual heating bill, depending which heating system you're replacing.
The Renewable Heat Incentive
(RHI) scheme provided payments to householders who have a heat pump,
estimated to be between £2,335 and £2,750 a year for an average
four-bedroom detached home.
Pros of ground source heat pumps
Financial aid – you can get financial help towards the cost of a ground source heat pump.
Efficiency
– you need to use electricity to power the pump that circulates the
liquid in the ground loop. But for every unit of electricity used by the
pump, you get between two and four units of heat – making this an
efficient way to heat a building.
Cut costs – cheaper Economy 7 electricity tariffs can be used to lower the cost of electricity to power the heat pump.
Cons of ground source heat pumps
Expensive installation
– installing a ground source heat pump is expensive: typically £10,000
to £18,000, depending on the size of the system (not including the cost
of fitting underfloor heating, if required), according to the EST.
Disruptive construction
– the groundworks required to dig the trench can be expensive and
disruptive – planning permission may be required if space is at a
premium and you need a borehole.
Requirements –
they are generally not suitable for properties with existing gas-fired
central heating. The technology works at lower temperatures, making it
better suited to homes with underfloor heating or very large radiators.
Other things to consider
It's also worth noting that you may need a separate electric heater to help meet all your heating and hot water needs.
If you’re also using the heat pump to provide hot water, it can limit the overall efficiency of the pump.
Ground
source heat pumps tend to be better suited to new-build homes, as they
can be planned as part of the construction process.
Are ground source heat pumps efficient?
A
ground source heat pump system can help to lower your carbon footprint
as it uses a renewable, natural source of heat – the ground. According
to the Energy Saving Trust, a heat pump with mid-range efficiency would
save you most carbon when used to replace an old electric heating system
(with storage heaters) or coal heating system.
A
heat pump also requires a supplementary source of power, usually
electricity, to power the heat pump. So there will still be some
resulting CO2 emissions.
Don't pay more for energy than you need to. VisitWhich? Switchand find the cheapest gas and electricity tariff for your home.
This is a great alternative to solar panels,which as we know have turned out to be not so great in the long run. They use up a lot of materials to make, also energy to make them too. They do not last forever and people tend not to maintain them as they should. They are not recyclable either which is not good. (The older versions aren't I am not sure about the latest generation ones, I will look into it0
The blog song for today is: "Too nice to talk to" by the Beat
